
Miyumi
How To Make The Miyumi Body Form


What You’ll Need
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The Miyumi Body Form Pattern (click here to buy PDF in A4 or Letter Format)
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Computer and printer (with lots of ink)
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210gsm paper card (about 40 sheets)
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Very sharp scissors
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Sharp cutting blade
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Cutting mat
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Lots of ½” tape (12.5mm) … I used Scotch 3M brand tape in 1” that I cut lengthwise in half as my shop was out of stock of ½”.
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Ruler
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Several hours
This is not an easy project. It’s going to take skill, patience and a whole lot of time. You need to cut accurately down the center of the line and tape accurately. If you’re slightly out on your cutting then the length of the curves will change and the pattern pieces won’t line up. You’ll very quickly see if you’re out as I’ve added arrows .... these are your life line so use them … if they don’t match perfectly then it’s probably because you haven’t cut absolutely perfectly down the center of the line. I can’t stress this enough.
I don’t recommend using tape narrower than 3/8” (10mm) as it won’t have the bite to hold on to both sides of the join. Cheap tape will also lack the holding power you’ll need. Likewise tape wider than ½“ (12.5mm) can affect how the pattern pieces curve and also not sit flat. I like to use lots small bite sized lengths around 25mm to 30mm long each as they’re the most manageable on all the curves … you could use longer pieces on the long straighter sections.
The pattern includes all the pattern pieces you need to create the body form for a size 76cm underbust, 72cm waist, 95cm hips and 34.5cm nape to waist ... the bust size depends on which of the included breast forms you choose to use.
Once the dress form is assembled, it will be split at the waist with a special template and papier mache will be applied to the inside of the form. The completed hard form can then be sanded and lacquered, or even have a thin layer of foam applied.
This project takes time and skill and is recommended for experienced crafters only ...
Difficulty: very difficult
Skill level: advanced
Copyright Note: this pattern and it's instructions are intended for home use only. Using this pattern to produce dress forms or modifying it for resale or any other commercial use is strictly prohibited. It is intended for use as a pattern making or display aid. This pattern is not to be shared with others. One pattern is for use by one person. By purchasing this pattern you are agreeing to these copyright terms.
Step One
I found it was easier to start at the bottom and work my way up when assembling the body form, so I’ve numbered the pieces starting at the bottom to help direct you on what’s the easiest way to assemble the project. Of course you can change the order for whatever works best for you … this is just what worked for me. So I’m starting with the crotch as it’s impossible to get to once the outside sections are done.





Image 1
Image 2
Image 3
Image 4
Image 5
Cut out Pattern Pieces 1 through 4, both left and right sides (see image 1). These pieces were too long to print out on A4 in one piece so you’ll need to stick the top and bottom parts together ... each bottom part is labeled with the same number as its corresponding top part.
Line up both left and right sides of Pattern Piece 1 along center front and tape them together carefully lining up the arrows (see image 2). Repeat by adding Pattern Pieces 2 (left and right) to the center pieces (see image 3 & 4). Then join Pattern Pieces 3 (left and right) to form the tummy being careful to make sure all the arrows line up (see image 5).



Image 6
Image 7
Image 8
If you’ve done it correctly the ends should all be square as shown in Image 6. If they’re a fraction out (less than 0.5 millimeter) you should be ok ... just trim it the tiniest fraction to make it square… more than that and you might want to go back and re-tape as it can make the gusset section twist.
Take both left and right sides of Pattern Piece 4 and place little bits of tacking tape along the center line as shown in Image 7… this tends to hold it in place so you can curve edge easier before taping permanently. I put little bits of tape along the whole length right up to the end. Notice that when you get to the point the tips will cross over because the curve is changing direction yet again. Do not cut them off or try to bend them … simply follow the curve and join them together with a little bit of tape as I’ve shown below (see Image 8). Once it’s all tacked together you can run along the edge with longer tape … this is a technique I use when parts are difficult to hold … just make sure you use the arrows so you everything is the correct shape.




Image 9
Image 10
Image 11
Image 12
Your two sections should look like Image 9 ... so, join the gusset section to the tummy section you assembled before (see Image 10). I also taped the inside of this join for added strength as it does get pulled on quite a bit when the inside leg sections get fitted (see Image 11). And now you've completed Step 1 ... it should look like Image 12. Put this section to one side for now and we’ll assemble the next section.
Step Two
Cut out the left and right sides of Pattern Pieces 5 through 10 (see Image 13). Read the markings on Pattern Piece 5 carefully to see where each piece goes … four separate pieces join Pattern Piece 5 to create the start of the cheek at the rear of the gusset. This section will twist like crazy as you assemble it, but just make sure it’s all lined up with the arrows and everything will be OK.





Image 13
Image 14
Image 15
Image 16
Image 17
Join Pattern Piece 9 to Pattern Piece 5 and tape into position being careful to match the arrows (see Image 14) ... if you didn't cut the lines perfectly then you'll find each piece might not fit between the arrows properly ... check! Take Pattern Piece 8 and line it up with Pattern Piece 5 and tape into position (see Image 15). Repeat with Pattern Piece 7 (see Image 16). When you join Pattern Piece 7 with pattern piece 5 it will sit on top of the other pieces because of its shape (see Image 17) ... this is ok.




Image 18
Image 19
Image 20
Image 21
Now start joining each of the Pattern Pieces 6 through 9 to each other (see Images 18 to 21)… I found it easier to start at Pattern Piece 9. Pattern Piece 6 will need to be twisted into position so the arrows line up. I found it easier to tack them into place at the alignment marks first as it can flick out of place easily (see Image 20).



Image 22