
The Head Form Pattern
How To Assemble The Head Form
What You’ll Need
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The Head Form Pattern (click here to buy PDF in A4 or Letter Format)
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Computer and printer (with lots of ink)
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210gsm paper card (about 8 sheets)
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Very sharp scissors
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Sharp cutting blade
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Cutting mat
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Lots of 3/8” tape (10mm) … I used Scotch 3M brand tape
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Ruler
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A couple of hours
Just like the Miyumi dress form pattern, this is not an easy project. It’s going to take skill, patience and a whole lot of time. You need to cut accurately down the center of the line and tape accurately. If you’re slightly out on your cutting then the length of the curves will change and the pattern pieces may not line up. You’ll very quickly see if you’re out as I’ve added arrows .... these are your life line so use them … if they don’t match perfectly then it’s probably because you haven’t cut absolutely perfectly down the center of the line. I can’t stress this enough.
I don’t recommend using cheap tape as it will also lack the holding power you’ll need. Likewise tape wider than 3/8“ (10mm) can affect how the pattern pieces curve and also not sit flat. I like to use lots small bite sized lengths around 25mm to 30mm long each as they’re the most manageable on all the curves … you could use longer pieces on the long straighter sections.
The pattern includes all the pattern pieces you need to create a head form for all the (female) crown sizes, 54cm to 62cm in 1cm increments. It's a complete package. Once the head form is assembled, papier mache will be applied to the inside of the form. The completed hard form can then be sanded and lacquered.
This project takes time and skill and is recommended for experienced crafters only ...
Difficulty: difficult
Skill level: moderate
Copyright Note: this pattern and it's instructions are intended for home use only. Using this pattern to produce head forms or modifying it for resale or any other commercial use is strictly prohibited. It is intended for use as a pattern making or display aid. This pattern is not to be shared with others. One pattern is for use by one person. By purchasing this pattern you are agreeing to these copyright terms.
Step One
The same rules that applied to making the Miyumi dress form apply to the head form ... you really need to cut accurately, and use lots of small sections of tape. The notch lines are there to help you asses where to place pieces and will indicate when you haven't cut all that well. Every pattern piece is labelled with either a number or letter and has guides which tell you to which piece is is to be joined to. The pieces are also labelled as left or right .... if they don't have a left or right label that means they sit on the center line. It's all relatively intuitive ... or at least I think it is!
Start by cutting out pattern pieces 1 through 3, both sides (image 1). Apply a narrow line of tape to the top edge of piece 1 ... I actually halved the width of my tape with a cutting blade to 5mm as there's some pretty tight curves and I don't want to cover the entire face with too much tape at this stage (image 2). When joining piece 2 to piece 1, I started at the center notch and then worked my way to each end. Then applied the narrower tape to the top edge of piece 2 (image 3).
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Again when you apply piece 3, start at the center notch and work your way to each end (image 4). All three pattern pieces should end at a nice neat corner. To hold them in place and prevent movement later it's a good idea to apply a little tape to the inside at each end (image 5).




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Cut out the left and right sides of pattern piece 4 and tape together at the center front (image 6). Apply the right side assembly to pattern piece 4 starting in the middle again and working your way to either end (image 7) ... repeat for the left side. Fold over the tape at the center to lock it into place (image8) ... this stops the very thin section from moving when you apply the lips.
Cut out pattern pieces A through to E and apply tape to the top outer edge of pieces B through E (image 9)



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Assembling the lip sections is really tricky and takes some pretty good hand eye coordination. If you don't want the lip sections in your head form then just go straight to applying pattern piece B and later put a flat piece of card to close the mouth if you don't want the hole either.
If you do want the lips, start by applying piece E from the center (image 10) and working you way to each end ... you may need to tilt the piece to a right angle to get the curves to match up (image 11) ... it's not easy so go gently and don't stretch the card. When you've finished, lock piece E into place by taping the inside in a few places (image 12).



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Next repeat with patter piece D. Note that pattern piece D isn't as wide as piece E so start at the center as always and work your way to each end (image 13). Do the same with Piece C ... it should fit together at about a 120 degree angle on the inside (image 14). Repeat again with piece B ... this time you'll notice that the ends of piece B fill the narrower space left by pieces C and D ... a few times in the beginning, mine didn't line up to well because I didnt get all the pieces centered and closely fitting ... this is the make or break for the mouth section (image 15).



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hold the corner of piece B right into the corner of the mouth and lock it into place on the inside with a small piece of tape (image 16) ... should be a nice fit on the outside ... if it isn't you'll need to try again or trim it up slightly (image 17). Lastly tape the top part of piece B to piece 1 inside and out (image 18).
The nose is best attached from the inside ... apply tape to the inside edge first then join it to the center of piece B (images 19 and 20). If all that worked then you've done the hardest part already!


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Step Two
Cut out the left and right sides of pattern piece 5, the nose. There's a straight section just below the first notch that you use to join the two sides together, and a little curve just at the end (image 21). Next apply quite a few little pieces of tape to the bottom of the nose so you can tape neatly whilst going around a tight corner (image 22). Starting in the center, apply the nose to piece A, one piece of tape at a time (image 23) ... pulling it tightly all the way to the end (image 24).




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The sides of the nose can be tricky if you didn't cut neatly or the very first cheek assembly pieces didn't come together neatly as a point ... you may need to rejoin a few pieces to make it neater or as a last resort trim it slightly, but it should look like image 25. I find it easier to join the edge of the nose from the inside first (image 26), checking the notch lines up (image 27), then taping from the inside again until the next notch (image 28 and 29).





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