Pattern Making Services & Mentoring
Let me start by saying this website should cover most of the topics you'll need to get started making ready to wear stretch-fit garments. Our Facebook Group is also useful supplement for general interest topics that don't quite fit on this website and to help with pattern making/fit problems
The group is obviously not a good place for pattern making mentoring as the answers will be limited to a particular fitting issue and open for all to read ... I simply can't mentor innumerable people one-on-one in a Group setting because I literally can't allocate that much time while I'm working for existing clients and you probably want your designs to stay secret until you're ready to release them! If you need more involved assistance then you'll need to book time for my services ... this page explains my typical work flow, so have a read and if you'd like to discuss your needs with me further then fill out the form at the end. I'm happy to discuss everything with you well in advance ... everybody's needs are different and I'm not going to charge you anything to see if my services are indeed really what you need ... a few emails or a chat in messenger are quite easy these days. If you do require my services then we'll discuss the cost up front, once we know exactly what you need. My services are typically US$60 per hour, but through this website I'm only charging US$40 per hour because I realise most of you are start ups ... it's likely I'll offer you a set package price for your job anyway.
Usually it only takes me around two to three days to create a set of blocks from an existing sizing table and reformat about 10 patterns (depending on their complexity) so on average you could expect the job to be around US$500 to $600.
So where do we begin? Most of the requests I get are from start up brands trying to standardise their sizing and bring in all their existing patterns (from varied sources) to that sizing system and that means creating blocks. If you need my assistance to do that, then you'll need to prepare a few things in advance!
Let's take a look at the flow chart below.
This flow chart illustrates the process I can assist you with. I've created a PDF help document for how to go about collecting sizing data ... if you wish me to customise a set of blocks specifically for your brand then I'm going to need sizing data for your specific market before we can do anything else. As part of the service I can guide you through this process, but really it's going to be you measuring a reasonable sample of your clients ... how many will vary based on your needs, and we can talk about that too.
All my pattern services are based on blocks/slopers ... if you need me to convert/reformat existing patterns or create new ones then you need the relevant blocks. I do not make a once off custom pattern to a single individuals measurements ... I work off blocks designed for ready to wear garments, graded in whatever interval you use. I can create the ready to wear blocks for you ... very similar to the ones you see for sale on my website, only customised to your market's specific sizing. I can't stress enough that these are your brand's single most valuable resource. Everything your Brand makes will be based on those blocks so they must be perfect.
If you already have a set of standard ready to wear blocks I can use those too (must be digital) or you can even use my general ready to wear blocks (once purchased) if cost is a major concern. Whichever, but I require blocks to be able to produce standardised ready to wear patterns for you.
Once we have blocks we can begin to reformat your old patterns or make new ones. When it comes to reformatting your old ones, I need to have a copy of them. While many newer Brands still use paper and pencil to create their patterns, a pattern maker will produce everything digitally using CAD (computer aided design). If you have existing paper patterns that you want reformatted to standard blocks then we're going to need full scale scans of your patterns. I stopped producing paper patterns nearly 30 years ago as every Brand I worked for required everything in a digital format. These patterns need to have as much information on them as possible:
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Seam allowance should be clearly marked for every seam
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Landmarks such as Bust Point, Bust line, Waist line, etc., are essential, all the way down to where you'd like pattern notches placed
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What is the name of the design (or identifying number), what size is the pattern (arbitrary and numerical identifiers), what is the pattern piece called (referred to as the panel identifier), what are the cutting instructions, and so on ... if you want it on your reformatted pattern then put it on your existing pattern before sending it to me.
The same information needs to be specified for creating new patterns. It might sound like a lot of information, but really it just comes down to good document management.
The next topic we need to consider are digital file formats (and yes we'll discuss this again when we chat). Just as likely as it is that you're working from paper patterns, you'll also probably want to print your blocks/patterns as well. I always include directly printable PDF versions of everything as default ... these can be printed in Adobe Acrobat to any page size.
But if you're intending to take your brand to the next level you're going to need to learn to use a CAD program ... there's lot's of choices available from the free Inkscape to the very complex and expensive AutoCAD ... I prefer Corel Draw ... it's up to you and your budget. On top of the default PDF I provide I can also make your blocks and patterns available as one of the following:
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DXF for all AutoCAD compatible programs (unlayered)
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AI for Adobe Illustrator (layered)
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CDR for Corel Draw (layered)
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SVG for Inkscape (layered)
All file formats will be presented one size per layer on an A0 page so you can view them singularly or nested (except for DXF which will be provided as one size per page). We provide simple flat digital formats without embedded data for systems like Gerber. You will need to have that service provided by the manufacturer at their additional charges if required ... if you wish to go that way I recommend selecting DXF as your file format.
Lastly, I currently only offer assistance in women's ready to wear stretch pattern making and only for 4-way stretch fabrics. I'm not currently offering any service for mens, teens or children although I'm likely to do the kid's/teen's dance in future.
If you're unsure of anything then just fill out the form below and ask.